I have strong opinions about steak. I have arrived at these opinions through years of experimentation, failure, and occasional triumph, and I am going to share them with you now whether you asked for them or not. That is the nature of strong opinions about steak.

The first thing to know is that the cut matters enormously. A ribeye and a sirloin and a filet are three completely different experiences, and the method that works beautifully for one may not work at all for another. I am going to focus today on the ribeye, which is my personal favorite — rich with marbling, deeply flavorful, and forgiving enough that it is hard to ruin entirely, even if you try.

The second thing to know is that your steak should be at room temperature before it hits the pan. Take it out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before cooking. A cold steak in a hot pan will cook unevenly — the outside will be done before the inside has had a chance to warm up. This is how you end up with a grey band of overcooked meat around a raw center, which is nobody's idea of a good time.

Season generously with salt and pepper — more than you think you need. The salt should form a visible crust on the surface of the meat. This is not the time for restraint. The salt will draw out a little moisture, which will then be reabsorbed, seasoning the meat all the way through. If you have time, salt the steak the night before and leave it uncovered in the refrigerator. This is called dry brining and it produces a noticeably better result.

For cooking, I use a cast iron skillet, preheated over high heat until it is smoking. Add a high smoke-point oil — avocado oil or refined coconut oil — and then the steak. Do not touch it. Do not move it. Do not press it down with a spatula, which is a thing people do that makes me want to lie down on the floor. Let it sear undisturbed for 3-4 minutes, then flip it once and sear the other side.

In the last minute of cooking, add a generous knob of butter, a few smashed garlic cloves, and a sprig of thyme or rosemary to the pan. Tilt the pan and baste the steak repeatedly with the foaming butter. This is the moment when your kitchen smells like a very good restaurant and you feel extremely pleased with yourself.

Rest the steak for at least 5 minutes before cutting into it. I know. I know you don't want to wait. But if you cut into it immediately, all the juices will run out onto the cutting board and you will have a dry steak and a very wet cutting board, and neither of those things is what you wanted. Rest it. It will be worth it. I promise.